Topstitching Inseam Pockets

Topstitching Inseam Pockets

The Amaranth pattern includes inseam pockets but there are a couple of reasons why I attached my side seam pockets a little differently from the tutorial.  First I didn't have enough fabric to cut 4 pocket pieces (2 sets mirror image) and secondly, I was worried my pockets would start to sag once my kids started giving me stuff to hold. This hack works for any side seams pockets that are not sewn into a waist seam. 

So for this tutorial you only need 2 pocket pieces (1 set mirror image).  Because we will be top stitching the pocket to the front bodice, having matching or coordinating thread is recommended.  With the busy print that I used for the version of Amaranth, the stitching isn't really visible once we are done.

For cleaner finishes, I serged the front and back bodice side seams as well as the pocket piece before beginning.

Place pocket piece right sides together with BACK bodice.

Stitch pocket to back bodice using 3/8" seam allowance.

Flip pocket fabric over so it is now right side up.  Press seam.

Topstitch to secure pocket to side seam.  

Now take the front bodice and place it right sides together with back bodice.  Align bodice pieces at hem and armsyce.  This is so we can mark where the pocket opening will be on the front bodice. 

Make a small snip on the front bodice fabric at the top and bottom for the pocket opening.  I snipped just passed the stitching line but go no more than 3/8" when cutting.

Fold the fabric between your snips in by 3/8" and press.  Topstitch.

You are only sewing the front bodice here so you can separate the front and back bodice fabrics.

Now we need to sew the side seam together.  Start at the armsyce and sew down until you reach the top of the pocket opening.  Backstitch to secure the stitching.  Start sewing again at the bottom of the pocket opening, don't forget to backstitch, and continue down to the hem.  

Open up your fabric so both front and back bodice pieces are right sides up.  You should now have a pocket opening.  

You can stitch your pocket to the front bodice by sewing on the right or wrong side of the front bodice.  Before sewing, I like to use double stick tape to hold the pocket in place.  You can also use pins to keep the pocket from shifting while sewing.

Repeat to attach the other pocket to the front bodice.

That's it!

Happy Making!

   

Tasha

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