Rivet Patterns Grading a Sewing Pattern for YOUR Body. The definition of 'grading' means to pass gradually from one level into another. When applying that definition to a sewing pattern, you are gradually moving from one size to another.
If you take a look at a size chart and find that your bust, waist and hip measurements put you into different sizes, this is the post for you! BEFORE you begin grading though, make sure that you have already made any Lengthen or Shorten modifications. Please note that you should NOT grade from a high bust measurement to a larger full bust measurement. You will have a much better fitting bodice by making a Full Bust Adjustment.
You've probably heard of different body shapes. Let's talk about them and how they related to grading. #1 is an hourglass shape. Bust and hip are fairly evenly distributed with a smaller, defined waist. For an hourglass, you will typically need to grade the waist to a smaller size. #2 is a ruler shape. Bust and waist and hip measurements are all quite similar. For a ruler, you will typically need to grade the waist to a larger size and the hip to a smaller size. #3 is an apple shape. Bust and hip are similar in measurements, with a rounded middle. You will typically need to grade the waist to a larger size, or, for an extreme apple, make a Full Tummy Adjustment. #4 is a pear shape. Bust and waist typically fall into the same size with a larger, fuller hip. For a pear, you will typically need to grade out for the hip. Last, #5 is a triangle. Bust, waist and hip fall into smaller sizes as you work your way down. For a triangle shape, you typically will need to grade the hip in for sure, and possibly the waist.
Now let's see how that translates to actual pattern pieces. Grading is most necessary (and noticeable) on slimmer fitting garments. I will use a fitted tee front bodice for an example. Remember, you MUST repeat all of the grading on the BACK pattern piece as well.
#1: For an hourglass shape where the waist is a smaller size than bust and hip, you will draw a gentle line from the full bust to the waist. You will then draw a gentle line from the waist to the full hip. If you need to grade more than one size or if the bust and hip are different sizes, the method is the same. This is true of pants as well when grading from waist to hip.
#2: For a ruler shape where the bust, waist and hip measurements are all fairly similar, you will most likely need to grade the waist to a larger size. You will draw a gentle line from the full bust to the waist. You will then draw a gentle line from the waist to the full hip. If you need to grade more than one size or if the bust and hip are different sizes, the method is the same. This is true of pants as well when grading from waist to hip.
#3": An apple shape is similar to a ruler except more extreme. You will need to grade the waist out to a bigger size than the ruler. A word of caution, this will increase the amount of waist ease all the way around. If you carry the majority of your weight in your belly, you may be better off doing a Full Tummy Adjustment. To grade, you will draw a gentle line from the full bust to the waist. You will then draw a gentle line from the waist to full hip. If your bust and hip sizes are different, the method is the same. This is true of pants as well when grading from waist to hip.
#4: For a pear shape where the bust and waist are typically in a smaller size than hip, you will most likely need to grade the hip to a larger size. In the example, the bust is a size 8, the waist a size 10, and hip a size 12. You will draw a gentle line from the full bust to the waist. You will then draw a gentle line from the waist to the full hip. If you need to grade more than one size or if the bust and hip are different sizes, the method is the same. This is true of pants as well when grading from waist to hip.
#5: For a triangle shape where the bust and waist are typically in a larger size than hip, you will most likely need to grade the hip to a smaller size. In the example, the bust is a size 12, the waist a size 10, and hip a size 8. You will draw a gentle line from the full bust to the waist. You will then draw a gentle line from the waist to the full hip. If you need to grade more than one size or if the bust and hip are different sizes, the method is the same. This is true of pants as well when grading from waist to hip.
A couple of special considerations. For the thigh of pants, you can grade in or out by a size without too much issue. I regularly do this because my hip is low and a bigger size than my thighs, so I pull the inseam and side seam back in at the top of my thigh. If you have large thighs, you will probably find a Full Thigh Adjustment to be more beneficial. You can find how to do a Full Thigh Adjustment in this Pants Fitting Blog post. If your pants pattern is a loose or wide leg pant, you may find you don't need to adjust the thigh at all. Draw a gentle line from the crotch point to the full thigh a few inches down.
Boxy or flowy tops may need minimal grading. It is important to check the finished measurements of the pattern to decide whether or not you want to grade. For example, if you are an hourglass shape and this is a sweatshirt, you may not want to grade in for the waist. Or if you are a ruler or apple, you might find there is enough waist ease that you don't need to grade out for the waist. For pear and triangle shapes, a straight grade from bust to hip may be enough.
YAY! That's it! That's all there is to it!
Happy Making!
Rachelle