In this post, we are going to talk about a Broad or Narrow back adjustment. A broad back is where the real estate across the widest part of your back is more than what the pattern is drafted for. You will feel constricted across the shoulder blades, particularly when reaching forward, perhaps even limiting range of motion. A narrow back is exactly the opposite. You will have extra fabric between the shoulder blades, and vertical drag lines, particularly around the sleeves.
There are other adjustments that can go hand in hand with this adjustment. Before beginning the muslin process, familiarize yourself with the Broad or Narrow Shoulder Adjustment, as well as the High, Round Back Adjustment.
If you would like to follow along with me in a video, you can find it HERE on our YouTube channel.
Let's get going! First, we need a couple of reference points. Mark just below the waistline (or, if your bodice ends at the waist, you'll use that). Mark at approximately the center point of the armscye. Mark at the shoulder line - midpoint, slightly shifted towards the armscye. Next, draw in your seam allowances.
Next, we'll draw our lines. The first line, draw vertically from the shoulder mark down to the waist mark. The second line, draw horizontally from the waist mark to meet the first line. The third line, draw horizontally from the armscye mark to meet the first line. The hinges will be at the shoulder line, and the armscye. Snip in to the seam allowances at those two points.
Now, we're going to cut. First, cut from the side seam waistline in to meet the vertical line. Pivot and cut the vertical line all the way up to the shoulder seam. Cut to, but not through, the seam allowance, creating a hinge. Next, cut horizontally from the vertical line to the armscye. Cut to, but not through, the seam allowance, creating a second hinge.
BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT:
Gently push the armscye hinge outward, creating space in the shoulder blade area. You aren't adding a huge amount here. Remember, that adding a half inch totals to a full inch once you cut both back pieces (or on the fold). Let the hinges do the work, and bring the seam allowance line back together at the waistline. Redraw the shoulder line, armscye, and side seam. That's it!
NARROW BACK ADJUSTMENT:
Gently push the armscye hinge inward, creating an overlap in the shoulder blade area. You aren't taking out a huge amount here. Remember, that removing a half inch totals to a full inch once you cut both back pieces (or on the fold). Let the hinges do the work, and bring the seam allowance line back together at the waistline. Redraw the shoulder line, armscye, and side seam. That's it!
Happy Making!
Rachelle